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I try on a vast blue frock by the new Chinese brand Marchen, huge even by my overblown standards, that I regret not buying. There is just enough time for a brief visit to Lolo Love Vintage, the incredibly charming outpost hidden down another alley, where the lovely old clothes are likely foreign transplants, and where I sing along to a scratchy recording of “I Can Give You Anything But Love” to the astonishment of the refined shoppers. At night, I hit the Fashion Week tent, where I hang out in the VIP lounge between shows. I nearly knock down a young girl who is carrying a handbag that is the exact replica of a hot air balloon. This is the Shanghai souvenir I want: so witty, so winsome! Alas, when I ask her where to find such an item, she has two words for me: “Kate Spade.” The next day, Anja convinces me to go with her to a creaky depot called Antique Shanghai, far from the center of town. This dusty dump specializes in the detritus of Chinese life over the past decades: old radios, painted wooden boxes, Mao memorabilia. I buy an ashtray with a picture of a leering, winking cat that, upon reflection, I am not even sure is Chinese; Anja does better, procuring enamel mugs, decorative boxes, and indigo fabric remnants. Time to pick up the clothes!

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